Leap to George’s for delicious diversity

ALYS BEACH - I always have been something of a tree hugger, whether it was echoing Woodsy Owl's "Give a hoot - don't pollute" as a child in the early '70s, or practicing today's "Reduce-Reuse-Recycle" philosophy.
   
For that reason, Alys Beach, a 30A community focusing on environmentally sensitive design, has been an interesting development to me.
   
With the opening of George's at Alys Beach, owners George and Ann Hartley have taken recycling seriously. The building housing the restaurant formerly stood near the Hartleys' other restaurant, the Seagrove Village Market.
   
The former home of Sandor's European Cuisine was moved to the Alys Beach location. Outdoor dining was added, and the interior was transformed with bright white paint, making it fit into the white theme of Alys Beach.
   
Everywhere you look, there are frogs. The Hartleys have collected them since they received a wedding present featuring frogs 25 years ago. The paintings of way-larger-than-life frogs add welcome bursts of color. Seating is available inside, on a screened porch or on the front deck (with wonderfully large tables and umbrellas).
   
George's food is simple, fresh and spectacular. Meat and vegetarian dishes mingle comfortably, each given respect on the menu. A great way to get the meal going is a cup of seasonal fruit gazpacho. The night I visited, it was pureed cantaloupe with fresh mint and honey, garnished with a bright-tasting fruit salsa.
   
Strangled Shrimp was another good starter choice. Shrimp wrapped in soba noodles were pan fried to crisp the noodles and served with lemongrass sauce.
   
Our salads screamed summer freshness. Chunky slices of watermelon were adorned with goat cheese and basil. Summer Veggie Carpaccio featured fennel, radish, celery and edamame. Capers added a touch of salt, and a lemon vinaigrette finished the dish beautifully.
   
Main courses are divided into "behave" and "misbehave" sections. Every dish sounded wonderful. From the behave section, there were virtuous choices such as Tupelo Honey and Mint Crusted Lamb Chop, woodgrilled tofu with seasonal vegetables and soba noodles, George's Claypot Chicken and Wild Orange Blossom Salmon.
   
I tried the Hot, Sweet and Sour Fish over Asian slaw. It was prepared with grouper that had been woodgrilled lending a pleasing smokiness and served atop a bed of sweet and tart slaw.
   
Misbehave entrees were equally appealing. Seafood bowls are served with a choice of side and hushpuppies. Choose from fried or grilled shrimp and grouper or fried oysters.
   
My favorite dish of the evening was also the least expensive entrée, Senora Anna's Fish Tacos. We chose grilled grouper, although the menu calls for fried grouper fingers. The grilled fish added smokiness that worked beautifully with a spectacular poblano-lime tartar sauce.
   
The tacos also are offered on the lunch menu, which features sandwiches and seafood baskets on the misbehave menu. The behave menu offers a handful of salads, including curry chicken salad.
   
Spa-inspired fare includes Ginger Chicken atop Asian slaw and a grilled vegetable plate served with a choice of two chalkboard special salads. Among the Healthy Wraps is the Power Wrap (beans, brown rice, avocado, cheese, sriracha and greens).
   
Children 12 and under choose from the Tadpole menu. It features Toadily Hoppy Pasta (frog-shaped pasta with butter and cheese); a quesadilla with chicken, broccoli and cheese; chicken tenders; and a pita crust pizza.
   
George's has a nice wine list with the majority of wines being offered by the glass. We had the crisp Legado del Conde organic Albarino.
   
George's dessert menu offers plenty of temptation. I liked the organic carrot cake that was sweet without being over the top. Even better was a Dreamsicle crème brulee. A nice touch of orange added brightness to this classically rich dessert.
   
George's is the perfect place for a diverse crowd. Whether you are vegetarian or omnivore, indulgent or virtuous, there is something on the menu to suit your needs in a most delicious way.